Manuel Joaquim
d’Almeida, who was Civil Governor and deputy for the constituency of the Algarve,
was a frequent traveller to Lisbon and he described his experiences thus:
“On one of these occasions, because my mother
was going, they took me so that I could experience the delights of travelling
in those days. It must have been in about 1888: you had to go by carriage to Vila
Real de Santo António, and spend the night there in a rather uncomfortable inn,
and the next day we boarded an old paddle steamer belonging to Sr. Alonso
Gomes, which went up the Guadiana as far as Mértola, where we rested in another
somewhat uninviting inn. The bumpy journey continued by carriage over ten
leagues of ascending roads along the deserted, old road to Beja, with a break
at the so-called ‘House of Change’, because that was where the horses were
changed. That was where I first saw horses eating bread soaked in wine which they
gave them because they looked so tired. The people there were bizarre and
rather uninspiring. Strange looking figures were to be seen, wrapped in
blankets, even lying on the ground. A dark night, fumes from the olive-oil
lamps, we didn’t dare to sleep. Grandfather did not let go of his leather bag
suspended on a strap across his shoulder. In the end we set off again, to get
the train from Beja to Barreiro and Lisbon as is still the case today. You had
to put up with great discomfort and danger, and it all had to be repeated on
the return journey to Faro”
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